Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Polish Chicken

Well Hello People, Im Jae, It been a while I left this Blog, well Now I Update it with a new Post About "Polish Chicken"  One of the Unique Chicken & exotic in Malaysia
Polish are a very special and unique breed of chicken with their huge bouffant crest of feathers and v-shaped comb. They are tame but their behavior can be a bit wacky since their crest limits their vision. When in a flock with more aggressive breeds, Polish will tend to be on the low end of the pecking order. Egg laying is varied in this breed - some lay well and some very poorly. In short, Polish are sweet, beautiful exhibition birds and can be good layers in the backyard flock, but they're not reliable. 

Some of the Polish Species

Bearded Buff Laced Polish Hen

Bearded Golden Polish Hen

White Crested Polish


Male Polish

Female Polish 

The Poland is a unique breed of poultry. It has various names worldwide which include Padua and Polish and although all of these names would lead you to believe that the breed originated from the country Poland this has never been proved. It is believed that the breed originally came from Eastern Europe and possibly Russia but again this is all still speculation. What is fact is that the oldest reference found to date is the stone statue in the Vatican which bears a very close resemblance to a crested fowl. Another discovery was in a Roman archaeological dig in the south of England where a skull from a bird was discovered and was exactly the same as the skull on today's Poland breed. It therefore suggests that this breed did originate from this area and was imported into the U.K. by the Romans. This also suggests that the breed is possibly one of the oldest in existence today.
This Self Blue Poland bantam won a Royal Show
This Self Blue Poland bantam won a Royal Show
Anyway enough history but it does give a basic insight into how important it is to keep this stunning breed alive and also that the future and protection of this and many other rare poultry breeds need to be conserved.
Over the last 17 years my wife and I have been devoted to-and obsessed by-the Poland. This breed is what I class as the "Royalty of Poultry." It is without doubt one of the most stunning of all poultry breeds, the crest is its crowning glory and sets it apart from any other breed. The crest is what causes the fascination and interest in Poland. The times we have been asked "where are its eyes" with the answer they are under there somewhere always creates even more gasps of delight, especially from the public who have never seen this breed before.
There is another enormous plus to this breed and that is the color variation which is, to say the least, quite vast. Not only do we have plain, laced and white crested but also they vary in large, bantam, non-bearded, bearded and last but not least a frizzle feathered variety.

Basic Description

All breeds love to perch including this Silver Laced Poland bantam.
All breeds love to perch including this Silver Laced Poland bantam.
The Poland is classed as a soft feather lighter breed and this description does mean exactly what it says, they are no use as a meat bird and although they do lay a decent white egg they are not a prolific layer. Another major point to remember is that the breed are also non-sitters, meaning that you either use another broody as a surrogate mother or artificial incubation. There is the very rare occasion when the hen will sit for the full term but I have found that even if she hatches the chicks as soon as they appear they are killed without mercy, and to me is not worth the risk.

Range of Colors

The range of colors is quite extensive. The most popular are the White Crested variety: these come in black, blue and cuckoo. There are also buff and partridge available but these are rare and not standardized as a color. By standardized I mean that the color has been accepted by poultry clubs around the world as a recognized color variation for the breed.
We have the self or plain colors of which there are white, black, blue and cuckoo. All of these colors are the same color all over the body including the head.
This White Crested Black exhibition bird won many shows and is now used for breeding.
This White Crested Black exhibition bird won many shows and is now used for breeding.
The laced varieties are also the same color over the whole of the body and these are available in gold, chamois and silver. These colors are very striking and have black or white lacing subject to color. These are possibly the most popular with the keeper who just wants beautiful birds for the garden, although the exhibition versions have to be seen to be believed.
Without going into detail of all the variations these are the most popular and the ones which are the most available. All the above come in a large and bantam version with both sizes also being bred in the frizzle feathered variety.
There are a large number of breeders worldwide but in the U.S. they are well represented by the Polish Breeders Club. I spent a weekend in November, 2006 at the Crossroads of America Poultry Show where this club had over 340 Polands of all types on display. The atmosphere at the show was excellent and a good weekend was had by all. Even if the exhibition side of poultry is not of any interest to you, joining the club is a very good idea for an unlimited supply of information and help. Membership is open to everyone and there are newsletters and information available to all members.

Care & Maintenance

The Poland is kept all over the world by an ever increasing selection of very serious breeders. The breed is what needs to be classed as high maintenance, but over the last few years there has been a large increase in the number of people who want to keep the Poland for its appearance and ornamental value. Thankfully all this adds to the future conservation of the breed.
As a breed of chicken the birds are quite hardy and resilient but there is a definite need for more care and attention with the keeping of these birds. Certain things are really best avoided, one of which is mixing Polands with any other non-crested breed. This is definitely not a good idea. There is also the fact that they are not really suitable to be allowed to run outside in all weather. Again, this is asking for trouble and problems. The main reason for both these points is the fact that with the crest of the Poland being quite large it does create a disadvantage when dealing with other breeds. I have seen the results on many occasions of crest pecking and in some cases this can prove to be fatal. As for being outside in bad weather, when the crest becomes wet and dirty it can lead to both eye infections and the lack of ability to see to eat and drink, and the results can be fatal. Do not let any of these problems put you off from keeping the breed but I feel that these potential problems need to be addressed. This not only saves the birds from unnecessary suffering but also saves the owner from being upset if a loss does occur.

Crest Care

This is a pair of Self White Poland bantams. One plain feather and one frizzle offers a comparison.
This is a pair of Self White Poland bantams. One plain feather and one frizzle offers a comparison.
This is quite easy to achieve. If the birds can be kept in a fully covered run then over half the problems will be solved. Keeping the crest dry and clean is the most important part of this maintenance. If the crest does get soiled it is easy enough to wash and then dry. Do this with care and gently but this is really the only way to help keep them clean. The use of a good insect repellent sprayed into the crest feathers helps to keep away the crest mites which do appear if these practices are not carried out. The way you can tell if the mites are in the crest is the formation of a black dust-like appearance down near the base of the crest feathers. This needs to be cleaned and must not be left. If you leave these mites and the infestation gets really excessive they get into the bird's ears and eyes and will cause permanent damage. Again prevention is far better than cure. One note I will add is that whatever spray you use make sure that the eyes and nose are protected and the spray does not get anywhere near the bird's face. Common sense, I know, but a warning has to be made.

Drinkers and Feeders

A very rare trio of Self White Frizzle Poland bantams.
A very rare trio of Self White Frizzle Poland bantams.
When purchasing a feeder and drinker for your Polands always take into account the crest. This is another way the birds get the crest both wet and dirty. A narrow lipped drinker preferably made from a smooth plastic is, in my opinion, the best product for the job. They not only help keep the crest out of the water but also does not damage the crest as it rubs on the side of the drinker. With metal galvanised drinkers they can tend to go rough and also can stain the crest as the birds are using them. The use of open drinkers is definitely not recommended under any circumstances. Feeders can be described in the same way as the drinker but I also recommend the use of pellets and not mash. The reason is that the dust from the mash can, and does, affect the eyes on the Poland. The dust gets under the crest and always seems to find its way into the eyes, sometimes with terrible results.


This is also another item to consider but as with all breeds of poultry I really do think the use of dust free shavings is the only safe way to keep any form of poultry. The dust affects the respiratory system on any breed, but with the Poland it is the eyes as well as the respiratory which we are trying to protect.

Saturday, 10 December 2011

Siberian Husky (Husky)

Siberian Husky
Siberian Huskies are strong, compact, working sled dogs. The medium sized head is in proportion to the body, with a muzzle that is equal in length to the skull, with a well defined stop. The color of the nose depends upon the color of the dog's coat. It is black in gray, tan or black dogs, liver in copper dogs and flesh-colored in pure white dogs. The medium sized, oval shaped eyes are moderately spaced and come in blue, brown, amber, or any combination thereof. Eyes can be half blue and half brown, (parti-eyed) or can have one blue eye and one brown eye (bi-eyed). The erect ears are triangular in shape, set high up on the head. The teeth meet in a scissors bite. The tail is carried over the back in a sickle curve, not curved to either side when the dog is excited. The large "snow shoe" feet have hair between the toes to help keep them warm and for gripping on ice. Dewclaws are sometimes removed. The medium length, double coat is thick and can withstand temperatures as low as -58 degrees to -76 degrees F ( -50 degrees to -60 degrees C). Coat colors include all from black to pure white, with or without markings on the head. The face mask and underbody are usually white, and the remaining coat any color. Examples of common colors are black and white, red and white, brown, gray and white, silver, wolf -gray, sable and white, red-orange with black tips, dark gray and white. Pie-bald is a very common coat pattern.
Siberian Huskies are loving, gentle, playful, happy-go-lucky dogs who are fond of their families. Keen, docile, social, relaxed and rather casual. This is a high energy dog, especially when young. Good with children and friendly with strangers, they are not watchdogs, for they bark little and love everyone.  Huskies are very intelligent and trainable, but they will only obey a command if they see the human is stronger minded than themselves. If the handler does not display leadership, they will not see the point in obeying. Training takes patience, consistency and an understanding of the Arctic dog character. If you are not this dogs 100% firm, confident, consistent pack leader, he will take advantage, becoming willful and mischievous. Huskies make an excellent jogging companion, as long as it is not too hot. Huskies may be difficult to housebreak. This breed likes to howl and gets bored easily. Does not do well if left alone for a long period of time without a great deal of exercise before hand. A lonely Husky, or a Husky who does not get enough mental and physical exercise can be very destructive. Remember that the Husky is a  sled dog in heart and soul. They are good with other pets if they are raised with them from puppyhood. Huskies are thrifty eaters and need less food than you might expect. This breed likes to roam. Siberian Huskies can make wonderful companions for people who are aware of what to expect from these beautiful and intelligent animals and are willing to put the time and energy into them.
Height, Weight
Height:   Dogs 21-23½ inches (53-60cm.) Bitches 20-22 inches (51-56cm.)
Weight:  Dogs 45-60 pounds (20½-27kg.) Bitches 35-50 pounds (16-22½kg.)
Health Problems
Prone to hip dysplasia, ectopy (displacement of the urethra), eye issues such as juvenile cataracts, PRA (primarily in male dogs), corneal dystrophy and crystalline corneal opacities. Breeders can get hip screenings from the OFA and eye screenings yearly from a canine opthamologist (AVCO) and register the exam through CERF and SHOR). Also prone to a skin issue known as zinc responsive dermatitis, which improves by giving a zinc supplements.
Living Conditions
They are not usually recommended for apartments, however they can live in apartments if well trained and properly exercised. Siberian Huskies are very active indoors and do best with a fenced-in large yard. Because of their heavy coats, these dogs prefer cool climates. One has to use common sense with respect to maintaining them in the heat by providing adequate shade and air conditioning. This breed prefers to live in packs.
Siberian Huskies need a fair amount of exercise, including a daily walk or jog, but should not be excessively exercised in warm weather. They need a large yard with a high fence, but bury the wire at the base of the fence because they are likely to dig their way out and go off hunting.
Life Expectancy
About 12-15 years.
The coat sheds heavily twice a year. During that time they need to be brushed and combed daily.
Siberian Huskies were used for centuries by the Chukchi Tribe, off the eastern Siberian peninsula to pull sleds, herd reindeer and as a watch dog. They were perfect working dogs for the harsh Siberian conditions: hardy, able to integrate into small packs, and quite happy to work for hours on end. The dogs have great stamina and are light weight. Native to Siberia, the Husky was brought to Alaska by fur traders in Malamute for arctic races because of their great speed. In 1908 Siberian Huskies were used for the first All-Alaskan Sweepstakes, an event where mushers take their dogs on a 408 mile long dogsled race. The dogs gained popularity in 1925 when there was a diphtheria epidemic in Nome, Alaska. Siberian Huskies were used to bring in the much needed medicine to the people. In the late early to mid 1900s Admiral Byrd used the dogs in his Antarctic Expeditions. During World War II the dogs served on the Army’s Arctic Search and Rescue Unit. The Siberian Huskies talents are sledding, carting and racing. The Siberian Husky was recognized by the AKC in 1930.
Northern, AKC Working
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CKC = Continental Kennel Club
FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale
AKC = American Kennel Club
UKC = United Kennel Club
KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
CKC = Canadian Kennel Club
ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
NKC = National Kennel Club
NZKC = New Zealand Kennel Club
APRI = American Pet Registry Inc.ACR = American Canine Registry
DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.
NAPR = North American Purebred Registry, Inc.
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Siberian Husky puppies sired by Husky (shown above).
Siberian Husky puppies sired by Husky (shown above).
Genevieve, the red and white Siberian Husky
Genevieve, the red and white Siberian Husky. Genevieve actively enjoys sled pulling and pulling her owner on skis.
Daisy the Siberian Husky staying cool in the swimming pool.
Daisy the Siberian Husky staying cool in the swimming pool.
"Isabelle is a 2 ½ year old Siberian Husky. She is more cat-like than domestic dog. She loves cuddles and independence. She needs lots of consistent long term teaching to learn anything! Sit took 2 months! Her most beautiful quality is her love for children. Isabelle still doesn’t tell us when she needs to go ‘outside’ but would always come to find me and howl at me if our baby as crying (then new born). Isabelle still has the most wonderful relationship with our daughter. She is so very patient with her, as our daughter learns how to be kind and gentle but firm with dogs. Isabelle is quiet and sneaky. You don’t know she is standing next to you until she gently licks your hand. We adopted Isabelle when she was 5 months old, from a family that had taken on more than they could handle. Isabelle needed lots of guidance and still does. She is anaccomplished escape artist, well known in our neighbourhood! She can climb vines, and we have since had to redo our garden to accommodate (contain) her. She loves to tunnel out under fences as well, so we now have a great deal of concreting under fences. Isabelle has the most amazing ice blue eyes. Until recently we were renovating our house, and many of the trades men fell in love with her and wanted to know where to get a dog ‘just like her’. Needless to say she is no guard dog. She is loving to anyone and everyone. She can’t be let off the leash ever. She is loves to run, chase, and explore. We call her our puppy cat."
Siberian Huskys
Photo Courtesy of Jalerran Siberian Huskies.
Siberian Husky Puppy Dogs
This is Cierra when she was just a tiny pup

Siberian Husky Puppy Dogs
This is Cierra at 5 weeks old. She is getting bigger.

Siberian Husky Puppy Dogs
Cierra, the Siberian Husky puppy.
.Siberian Husky Puppy Dogs
Normey, a pure white Siberian Husky at 5 years old.
Normey, a pure white Siberian Husky at 5 years old.
Normey, a pure white Siberian Husky at 5 years old.
Normey, a pure white Siberian Husky at 5 years old.

Friday, 2 December 2011

Birds Of paradise

Birds Of Paradise Facts

Scientific Name:Paradisaeidae
Size (H):15cm - 110cm (6in - 43in)
Wing Span:20cm - 120cm (7.9in - 47in)
Weight:50g - 430g (1.8oz - 15.2oz)
Life Span:5 - 8 years
Conservation Status:Least Concern
Colour:Black, White, Grey, Green, Brown, Blue, Yellow, Red
Skin Type:Feathers
Favourite Food:Insects
Habitat:Tropical forest tree tops
Average Clutch Size:3
Main Prey:Insects, Fruit, Seeds, Berries
Predators:Human, Snakes, Large Birds
Distinctive Features:Brightly coloured feathers and elaborate dance of males

The birds of paradise are a group of birds that are found in the tropical rainforests of south east Asia, mainly in the jungles of Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and parts of eastern Australia.

Birds of paradise are best known for the beautiful array of feathers which are existent on the male birds of paradise, which the male bird of paradise uses to attract the attention of the surrounding female birds of paradise. As with many species of bird, the female birds of paradise are dull looking in comparison to their male counterparts and are generally smaller and have light brown feathers, and have a similar appearance to the nightingale.


There are around 50 different birds of paradise species that range in size from 15cm to over a meter in height. Many of the birds of paradise species are extremely rare and are only found in particular habitats and in certain places. The birds of paradise were unknown to the western world until 1996 when David Attenborough stunned the world with his footage of the incredible birds whilst on a trip to Papua New Guinea.
Many birds of paradise species feed on fruits and berries found in the canopy of the surrounding jungle. Some species however, are very partial to eating insects and otherbirds of paradise favour particular species of spider.
Birds of paradise are known to be the most dramatic and attractive birds in the world. The brightly coloured plumage of the male birds of paradise contains colours ranging from red, to yellow, to green and along with their unique dance moves, the male birds of paradise really stand out on the forest floor.
The beautiful, bright colours of the birds of paradise have made these birds a highly prized target for hunters and tribesman alike who use the brightly coloured feathers of the birds of paradise to create clothes and costumes. This practice and tradition has meant for enormous population declines for the birds of paradise, with some species being worse off than others.
Birds of paradise tend to be solitary birds and only come together to mate. The male birdof paradise attracts a female bird of paradise using his bright feathers and perfected dance routine. The female bird of paradise lays her eggs in a nest. Unlike many other species ofbird, the birds of paradise can nest on ground level, in the trees or in dense foliage.
Birds of paradise chicks usually hatch within 20 days but the specific incubation period differs between species. The birds of paradise chicks are often born with no feathers at all although some hatchings are born with a few. The newly born birds of paradise chicks are unable to walk or stand and rely on the mother bird of paradise to find food. Birds of paradise chicks are usually independent by the time they are a month old.
Adult birds of paradise have very few natural predators in the wild but the more vulnerablebirds of paradise chicks are preyed upon by large birds of prey and the odd snake. The main predator of the birds of paradise is the humans that live in settlements in the samehabitatBirds of paradise are also being continually threatened by deforestation and habitat loss.

Birds Of Paradise  Mate Dance

Wednesday, 30 November 2011

Basic Hedgehog Care

pygmy babies


  • A metal or plastic cage (like those made for guinea pigs or ferrets) works great, or a 20 gallon or larger aquarium. Large plastic storage containers also work very well as a hedgehog home. Make sure that the cage has at least 2 square feet of floor space, and that the cage bottom and sides have no wire grates that little hedgehog feet can fall through and get hurt on, or get stuck. Clean the cage at least once a week, and odor won't be a problem.
  • Hedgehogs like to have a hiding place or cover to sleep under. Providing such a hiding place will reduce nervousness. Large half logs, a kleenex box with a hole cut in the side, plastic bowls, or even a hedgehog sized cloth bag will work well.
  • You will want to place your hedgehog's cage in a warm area of the house. Hedgehogs need to be kept in a room with a temperature of 70F to 85F. If a hedgehog gets too cold it will attempt to go into hibernation. Heating pads can work well in the winter, but make sure that it doesn't cover the entire cage, so that your hedgehog can escape the heat if he starts to get too hot. Be careful using heating pads, as hedgies who have difficulty moving can easily be burned by them.
  • Unless you are attempting to breed hedgehogs, keep males and females separated. If a female has babies while there are other hedgehogs in the cage, it is likely to cause her stress and either she or the other hedgehogs are likely to eat the babies. Also, hedgehogs can get pregnant when they are as young as 8 weeks old, but this is not healthy for them. A female hedgehog should not be bred until she is at least 6 months old.
  • In the wild, hedgehogs are solitary animals. In captivity, some hedgehogs will accept (or even crave) the companionship of other hedgehogs, but don't necessarily assume this is the case. Hedgehogs can have lethal roommate disputes, so if you decide to try to house two hedgehogs together, be sure to observe them closely (or at least be within earshot to separate them in case of fights) for at least the first 24 to 48 hours. Hedgehogs can emit a bloodcurdling scream when upset or hurt, but they can also get into fairly quiet tussles, so be careful.
  • Example : 

  • You can use a wide variety of beddings for your hedgehog. Cloth liners, newspaper, recycled paper products and aspen have been recommended by many. A little warning about wood beddings, they have been known to carry mite eggs which could hatch and infest your new pet, wood beddings also can become lodged in sensitive areas of your hedgehog. Be certain to inspect your hedgehog daily for redness or swellings.

  • Hedgehogs need lots of exercise, as they tend to become obese with inactivity (who doesn't? ;). A large wheel (11" in diameter or so) is recommended. Be sure that the running surface of the wheel is solid, so that the hedgie is not at risk for slipping and breaking legs. You can find a listing of hedgehog wheels on the internet at http://www.mihog.org. Wheels made for rodents with metal bars should in no case be used, as a broken leg may result. Many owners report that their hedgehogs enjoy anything that they can push or manipulate. Examples of toys that owners have reported their hedgehog enjoying are: toilet paper tubes, brightly colored plastic toy trucks, cat balls, and various stuffed animals.
  • Diet is an area where there is considerable controversy. We still don't know exactly what a hedgehog needs, but there have been preliminary studies at the Bronx Zoo. Information presented at the 1998 Go Hog Wild Hedgehog Show and Seminar indicated that hedgies need a diet that has a good amount of protein and is low in fat. A fiber content of approximately 15% (preferably from chitin, but hedgehogs can utilize fiber from plant sources, too) is optimal. At this time, no single food fully meets the optimal nutritional requirement for hedgehogs. Many of the hedgehog foods on the market do a pretty good job of meeting most of the needs, but a good quality commercial cat food didn't seem much off the mark, either, according to the statistics given in the presentation. Due to the lack of knowledge veterinarians and owners will agree that a hedgehog should be fed a mixture of foods supplemented by insects, fruits, vegetables and cooked meats.
  • There are now a number of good hedgehog foods on the market. Some examples of good hedgehog foods are Insectivore Fare, Select Diet, Pretty Pets, 8n1, L'Avian, and others. The use of Vitacraft hedgehog food is very strongly discouraged, as it appears to have been crafted for use with the much larger European breed of hedgehogs, and contains some choking hazards for the smaller African hedgehogs.
  • The more you handle your hedgehog, the more it will get accustomed to you.
  • At first, your hedgehog may be scared. It may ball up or puff air and click its tongue to scare away any potential predator, including you. Approach your hedgehog slowly and quietly to gain its trust. Pick up your hedgehog from underneath to avoid the quills. You shouldn't need gloves to pick it up, even if it is scared, since you can slide your fingers underneath to distribute the weight. If you are afraid of being pricked, then take a pair of gloves and get them smelling like you (tuck them under your pillow for a couple of nights, or put them in your shirt for a while) so the hedgie will associate your smell with being picked up.
  • Hedgehogs deserve the love, attention and affection that any pet deserves. They may not be cuddly as a kitten, but with interaction you will discover they have personalities at least as interesting, if not more.
  • There are several active hedgehog mailing list available at egroups.com. Hedgehog_help is a very large group of owners consisting of new owners, experienced breeders, and rescues, and is a good place to turn first for help in caring for your hedgehog. Additional groups exist devoted to hedgehog caretakers and their interests.
  • A search on the word 'hedgehog' in any search engine will turn up many different sources of information, some good, some bad. As we learn more and more about our spiny friends, older information may be found to be incorrect. Newer sources should contain updated information.
  • For those hedgehog owners located in Michigan looking for advice on caring for their little companions, visit http://www.mihog.org for information on hedgie friendly vets, places to buy food and supplies, and much, much more.
  • Don't be surprised if your hedgie starts shedding a lot of quills when it is about 8 to 12 weeks of age. This is a normal process, and is known as "quilling." The hedgehog is simply shedding baby spines and you should be able to see new adults spines pushing through the skin. To be on the safe side, though, you may want to check for mites or fleas. Signs of mites include crustiness around the quills and seriously dry looking skin. Both mites and fleas can be treated effectively with Revolution drops, available from your vet. When adolescent hedgies are "quilling" they may be somewhat grumpy, but should return to normal temperament once the quills are in.

Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Red Golden Pheasant

How to Raise and Breed Red Golden Pheasants

The red golden pheasant is the name of a colorful game bird bred in captivity. In the wild, it is known as the golden pheasant, or Chrysolophus pictus. According to "Game Bird and Conservationists' Gazette," George Washington bred these birds at Mt. Vernon and was the first well-known American to raise them. Originally from China, you can easily raise and breed red golden pheasants at home. They are hardy birds and the males have full golden crests, scarlet breasts and long spotted tails. These distinctively plumed birds are easy to care for even for beginners.



Other Pheasant

Male  Ring - Necked  Pheasant

Female Ring - Necked Pheasant

Silver Pheasant (Lophura nycthemera)

Silver Pheasant Male

Silver Pheasant Female


 Place a wire rabbit cage in a warm, draft-free area of your home such as a bathroom. This will house your baby red golden pheasant chicks until they are old enough to live outside. A rabbit cage approximately 3 feet long is suitable for up to four chicks. You can use large box instead.

  • 2
    Line the cage with three layers of paper towels that will need to be changed at least once a day to keep the cage clean. Place a waterer with water and a feeder with crumbled game bird starter in the cage. Clamp your light with the red light bulb in one corner of the cage, so the chicks can move away or closer to the heat. Keep the light on 24 hours a day until they have feathers.
  • 3
    Place your few-days-old chicks inside your cage. You can purchase unsexed chicks from local breeders or use an online website such as eFowl or McMurray Hatchery. Some breeders only sell adult male and female pairs. Change the water and replace the food when needed.
  • 4
    Place the pheasants outside in an aviary after three weeks if the weather is warm, such as in the middle of spring. For four birds, an aviary about 6-by-6-feet should suffice. Red golden pheasants are not good flyers but they need space to roam. If you let them out in your garden you do not need as large an aviary.
  • 5
    Switch to adult game bird layer pellet food once they are four months old. Feed the birds vegetable and fruit scraps, like peels and dandelions. Be sure they always have fresh water, especially in the summer.
  • 6
    Check the sex of your chicks. By the time they are about four months old, you will notice that the females are mostly brown and the males have the colorful plumage. You must have at least one male in order to breed your birds.
  • 7
    Place nesting boxes in your pheasants' aviary. After eight months, check for eggs. They may lay them in other areas, but you can teach them to lay in the nesting box by placing a dummy egg inside.
  • 8
    Put the laid eggs into an incubator that automatically turns. Set the temperature to 99.8 degrees Fahrenheit. The incubation period is 21 days and on the last day place the eggs on a wire mesh hatching basket inside the incubator. Once the chick has hatched, keep it in the hatcher for eight hours.

  • Sunday, 27 November 2011

    Common Bronzewing

    Scientific name: Phaps chalcoptera
    Family: Columbidae
    Order: Columbiformes

    What does it look like?

    Common Bronzewings are medium-sized, heavily built pigeons. The male has a yellow-white forehead and pink breast. Both sexes have a clear white line below and around the eye and patches of green, blue and red in the wing, characteristic of all bronzewings. The Common Bronzewing is a cautious pigeon, and rarely allows close approach. If startled, it flies away with a clatter, keeping low to the ground while moving in a steady, direct manner. Young Common Bronzewings are duller and browner than the adults. The metallic wing patch is absent or not easily seen.

    Similar species
    Common Bronzewings can be distinguished from the similar Brush Bronzewing, P. elegans, by their pinkish-grey breast, light brown nape and back, and pale throat (rather than grey breast and chestnut nape, back and throat).

    Brush Bronzewing, P. elegans

    Where does it live?
    Common Bronzewings are one of the most plentiful and commonly seen pigeons in Australia.
    Common Bronzewings are found in almost every habitat type, with the exception of the most barren areas and densest rainforests. Common Bronzewings are normally seen alone, in pairs or in small flocks, and are rarely found far from water.

    Common Bronzewings build an untidy nest of sticks and twigs. It is normally placed low down in a tree or bush, but may be up to 20 m above the ground. The creamy-white eggs are incubated by both parents. Both adults also share the care of the young birds, which are born naked and helpless and are completely dependent on their parents. Bronzewings, like other pigeons, secrete a special milk-like substance from their crop, which is fed to the young chicks.


    Common Bronzewing (Phaps chalcoptera)



    The Common Bronzewing feeds on seeds and other vegetable matter. The birds feed on the ground and in small parties. These small groups need to drink frequently, and visit waterholes during either the day or night.

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